Cruel Jewel

The Cruel Jewel was one of those races I first heard about when I started trail running. A friend of mine from one of my running groups was convinced to sign up for his first 100 miler and this was the one he chose. I remember thinking, “what’s up with these ultra races and their names.” When I looked up the Cruel Jewel, I realized quickly why it was named that. The Cruel Jewel is dubbed “the most grueling race on the east coast.” The Cruel Jewel also boosts over 33,000 ft of vertical gain and because it is an out and back course, 33,000 ft of loss. It’s also cruel because it’s 106 miles not 100 miles. Participants from the race will say it is from the out and back at the halfway mark which is “pointless” because that is where the extra 6 miles come from. It’s 3 miles down a hill and then 3 miles back up. The other first impression I got from researching this race is the amazing buckle rewarded at the end. The buckle is larger than most and it features the elevation on the logo. Honestly it looks like an evil grin to me.

When I was researching for my first 100 miler, this race was suggested to me. I liked that it had a 48-hour cut off. I was not afraid of the amount of vert advertised. The 106 miles to me just meant my watch would be off, because we all know races don’t always end exactly. What scared me away from making this my first 100-miler was that it started at noon. Noon in the Georgia heat in May. I was leery of the psychological effects of potentially seeing two night falls and two sunrises. Thus, after completing two 100-milers successfully and watching a hand full of YouTube videos on the race, I decided to make 2023 the year of challenges and go for this challenge.

The first challenge of this race was getting there. Flying didn not seem like an option as we would have to fly into Atlanta and then drive another 2 hours to the Chattahoochee Forest. It just seemed easier to load up the car and go. I was lucky to secure a great crew from the get-go. Jamie (my co-pilot) was done with school and could take the journey down there with me. Plus, I really needed her for the drive home. My other two crew members; Christian and Julia worked on Friday and were able to meet up with Jamie after the race had started.

When I think about 10 hours. I can run for 10 hours but driving for 10 hours seemed like a different story. The biggest advantage was that we could load the car up as much as we needed and did not feel limited as we would if we had flown. Time getting there did not seem that long and we were able to get to bib pick up the day before and then check into our hotel for a nice night of rest before the race.

This was the first year that they offered bib pick up on Thursday the night before the race. There was also another additional change this year as the course changed direction. In previous years, the course started in Vogele State Park. This year the course started in the turnaround location at Camp Morganton. The turnaround point this year was a little outside of Vogele State Park. This change of course also meant a little creativity with the race directors as we could not go into the state park. This also lead to the question of that “pointless” out and back that was in the middle of the race. Would the race directors put it at the beginning of the end? No fear, the race directors did a great job of keeping the cruelness of the Cruel Jewel. They had the “pointless” out and back at the end and added another one at the 50-mile point. There was also a loop that in previous years was done twice consecutively that required a hole punch in your bib. This year that loop was done once in the beginning and the second time at the end of the race. As this might sound confusing reading (as it was confusing for us as the details of the course were released) it made sense on race day.

One final point regarding the logistics of the race that deserves mentioning was that there were NO porta potties on the course. Now, being a trail runner, I am not unfamiliar with going in the woods. But there is a level of comfort knowing that when get to an aid station that there is one waiting. Just a thought.

As race morning approached, my first hurdle was not getting up at the crack of dawn to get ready. I am naturally an earlier riser and just told myself to rest as long as possible before getting ready. I will admit that this was a nice start as I was not rushed to get up early, I went to bed relaxed and enjoyed my pineapple pizza I had ordered the night before for breakfast. I had time to get to the start and talk with previous years’ runners. The common theme among them: “Don’t go out fast.” With the change in direction of the course, the first 50k will be “easy” and then the Duncan Ridge Trail (AKA the Dragon Spine) will “eat runners’ legs and shred them.” I also ran into the previous second place female winner. She recommended the same advice along with her times as the first year she ran it, she did it in 41 hours. This time sat in my head as I would be happy finishing and that over 40 hours is a reality.

The Cruel Jewel started with a “3, 2, 1, go!” The group proceeded away from Camp Morganton and turned up the 2-mile, 900 ft of climbing, stretch of road to the first aid station (Deep Gap). Deep Gap was the first aid station at 2.7 miles which was the check point for the first loop (Flat Creek loop) where we had to get the first bib punch. The bib punch is located halfway through the 5-mile loop and then one makes their way back to Deep Gap aid station where a volunteer signs off that you got the punch. Runners are then directed to the next path which leads up towards Stanley Gap aid station (13.2).

To get to Stanley Gap there is the expected climb up. I learned early on in the race to look for blue skies along the tree lines to gauge how much farther up I had to go. I am actually pretty efficient on the uphill, so I had no issues with a nice fast pace up. I also kept in the back of my mind; I need to come back over this at mile 90 only going down instead of up. After reaching the peak the trail descended back down towards Stanley Gap aid station. At Stanley Gap racers were being prewarned that the next section was the 5-mile road section which would be hot as we will be exposed to the sun. I maintained a nice pace of above a 10-minute mile on this section as again I was warned not to go fast here but also didn’t want to walk the entire section. The road ended with a quick uphill and then a small down to the next aid station.

The next aid station was Old Dial Road (mile 19.1). Old Dial Road was the first time I got to see Jamie. I realized now the advantage of the noon start as this was the hottest part of the day and it was done and over with in the beginning of the race verses hitting it after a long morning in the humidity. I really noticed the heat on the uphills as I ended up taking off my hat and then splashing water on myself at the aid stations. At the aid stations I wasn’t as hot as when I was climbing but the water still felt good. The climbs were worth it as you reached the top, there was a cool breeze. The downhills were runnable and the trails in general were good at this point in the race.

The next aid station was Wilscot Gap (24.6). Again, I got to see Jamie here and this was the first time we got our drop bags. I continued my normal eating as I was eating on the uphill climbs the fig newtons and Chia bars. At aid stations I got peanut butter and jelly. Along with Mt. Dew for energy and pickle juice for salt. I also carried salt tabs and energy chews.

The next aid station was Sheenah Gap (29.5). This was the final time I would see Jamie before heading into the Duncan Ridge Trail (Dragon Spine). I remembered telling Jamie that the last two aid stations were basically climbing up and mountain and then back down to the aid station. I felt good leaving Jamie and heading into the Dragon Spine. I also knew I would not see her again until the other side, which was also the halfway point.

The first climb out of Sheenah Gap was the introduction of the Dragon’s Spine. It was definitely a steeper climb and seemed longer. It was here that I needed my headlamp for the race. I still found myself passing people as I ascended. I remembered wanting to count how many times I climbed as to note this on the way back. Immediately after reaching the top of the first hill, there was a steep downhill. I felt pretty good descending and did not loose pace on this first hill. From there, there was a pretty runnable portion that I found myself passing another runner before reaching the next aid station, Fish Gap (34.4).

I felt confident arriving into Fish Gap and not staying long. The runner who was already there when I arrived had asked at the station how far ahead the lead guy was. I was pretty impressed when I heard how the lead guy had come in about a little over 2 hours ago. I quickly left there and proceeded on to what I now can say is the real Dragon Spine as this section got interesting fast.

Immediately after leaving Fish Gap, the trail got rockier and had become overgrown. I could not see as well with the overgrowth and the rocks made me question my footing, which slowed me down. This was also a more beautiful part of the course as there was a clearing at the top. I could feel the cold breeze and ahead I could see the lights of the small towns in the distance. This section became more technical as there was more difficult rock to navigate over and what seemed to be switchbacks going across the ridge of the mountain. It was also at this point the first-place male passed me coming the opposite direction. This was also the longest section of the course between aid stations as the next aid station, Fire Pitt was 7.3 miles away.

Once leaving Fire Pitt, I proceeded to encounter more people that had reached the halfway point and were returning for the second part of the course. I asked at the aid station before leaving if the next section was any easier. The response was “it’s only a mile and a half up and then the last 3 miles are downhill.” At this point, a downhill seemed welcomed. Then I realized that that 3-mile downhill would be a 3 mile uphill when I turned around.

After what appeared to be forever of going downhill and passing individuals as they were returning for the second part of the course, I reached the bottom and found my crew, Jamie who was now joined by Christian and Julia at the Wolf Creek aid station (46.4). I lead under the same disbelief of everyone else that there would be porta johns at this aid station because as soon as I got there, I asked where they were. To my disappointment and everyone else that asked, there were none. My crew informed me of the “relatively easy out and back” that I needed to do before going back out onto the course. This was the Poor Decisions section which required a hole punch before turning around. This part was interesting as there were creek crossings that made the terrain muddier. Note it was not raining and the creeks were not deep, just enough to make the area around the streams tricky.

Before leaving my crew for the Poor decisions out and back, I informed them I wanted to get the Dragon Spine over and when I got back, we (Jamie and I) would leave for the second part. I made my decision to stop and take a nap upon returning from Poor Decisions as I had gotten tired on this part. I knew I would not see my car again until I was completely through the Dragon Spine and being tired could make this difficult section more difficult. I also realized that I was 4 hours ahead of the cutoffs. At which I was almost 6 hours as it seems that they increased slightly for the second part of the course. I returned to my crew after Poor Decisions with the good decision to take a 30-minute nap. I prefer to call this period, resting my eyes as I really did not sleep. I laid my head down at 5:50 am and Julia woke me up at 6:30 am. I noticed that civil twilight was starting, and it would soon be light out which motivated me to get going.

Jamie was excited to get started and see the course. I knew this was a 3-mile uphill climb she was being introduced to. I also informed her that this 17 mile section would amount to about 6,000 ft of vert. Jamie did a great job of keeping me motivated. She took pictures of the trail and the beautiful flowers that I could appreciate more with another individual. As we reached the one ridge line, we both recognized the sound of hound dogs barking as if they had something cornered. Immediately, out from under the trees, men in orange went running in their direction. We later learned that they were wild boar hunters and that the hounds had cornered a wild boar! Jamie later found the hunters again and inquired if they knew there was a race going on and if we would be in their crossfire. Luckily, they shoot the boar once they are caged. On the final decent out of the Dragon Spine, Jamie mentioned that there was a sign pointing to the Duncan Ridge Trail. I had to give this portion of the race a proper goodbye captured with a picture.

I felt my spirits and legs were holding up pretty good at this point. I had noticed I was collecting rocks in my shoes which became annoying. I also feared poison ivy due to the thick overgrowth that I had now traversed twice through. I was also 4 hours ahead of cutoffs which gave me a good feeling.

Back at Sheenah Gap (68.7), Jamie and I meet up with Christian and Julia. Julia was to take me through the next 3 aid stations. We noticed at the aid stations it started to rain but it would go away as we ventured onto the trail. At Wilscot Gap (73.6) we were not so lucky, and the rain only increased as we went onto the trail. I knew I was going slower due to the rain which had me doing stupid math in my head. “If I keep this pace, I will finish but just before 48 hours.” When Julia and I arrived at Old Dial Road (79.1) I felt a sense of urgency and need to not stop for fear of cut offs. Thankfully Christian and Jamie knew the math and knew I was fine. Julia also kept pace and did not let me slow down. This was also the 5-mile road section which enabled me to maintain a better pace. The best part of the section was also the porta potties in one of the business’s parking lots. This was like an oasis in the desert at this point.

Julia and I arrived at Stanley Gap aid station (85) as it got dark and the rain continued to fall. Christian took over at this part leading me as this was the start of the “pointless” out and back. I learned now that this pointless out and back is also on the edge of a hill, which due to my fear of heights, I would not have enjoyed. Thankfully for the darkness, I did not realize how steep the cliff was to my right.

I will admit that all the YouTube videos about this section were correct as it does seem to continue to go down into a dark abyss. After what seemed like forever, we started to see people coming back up the hill from the aid station, so we knew it existed and we were going the right way. Eventually people would start to tell us “it’s almost there.” Then people started to tell us “it’s just around the corner.” At this point, I don’t know which phrase is worse to hear. Finally, just around the 3rd corner and over 2 creeks, we found the aid station. Christian and I did not stay long. At this point the rain had stopped but it was still very wet from the rain falling off the trees when the wind blew.

Christian and I proceeded back up the hill towards the beginning of the out and back where there were signed that pointed to Deep Gap (95.4) and I knew the end was near. This was the same flat creek loop from the beginning of the race (two days ago now) where there was the hole punch again required to pass the aid station. The course markings read 2.7 miles till the hole punch. The guy at the aid station said 3 miles to the hole punch. My watch at this point did not have me at 95 miles and I knew I was off, so I was relying on Christian’s watch to be more accurate at this point. What seemed like forever, I asked Christian what mile we were at, and he mentioned 3 and be both assumed we should have seen the hole punch by now. Instead of thinking that we just hadn’t seen it yet, my mind went to “it feel over the hill side” or “someone took it” and I was thinking of what I would tell the aid station when I made it through the loop without a punch as there was no hole puncher. Just then out the glow of our headlamps, the hole puncher was in front of us. Excitedly I punched my bib for the third time and proceeded for the rest of the loop back to Deep Gap aid station.

I told Christian as we left the tail that the road was the next section and “the only way I was not going to finish now was if a car hit me.” As we approached the road, civil twilight was starting, again as it was now after 5 am on Sunday. We both still had our headlamps on and proceeded on the left side of the road facing traffic to avoid any distracted drivers. As most cars sped by us, they moved away from our direction once they saw us. The last car driving up the hill, as we were going down, decided to turn on their high beams and speed up as they approached us as if they were trying to hit or scare us. That is the last time I will use those words.

The next 2 miles seemed like forever as we were off the main road and on back roads that went through farms. What we thought was cheers of us finishing was roosters crowing at the sunrise. I will still take it as it felt so good to be done and handed that buckle. I got the best hug from my crew and we all proceeded back to the hotel for a well deserved rest.

All in all, the Cruel Jewel was a great experience. If you like climbing hills and the mental challenge of out and backs, this is the race for you. The aid stations were well prepared, the RDs were active in the race, and I always felt I was with someone on the course. My crew did a phenomenal job of making sure I crossed the finish line. Between wild boar, rogue trucks, rain, and a grueling course, there was nothing stopping me from finishing. I finished with a time of 42:38:51 as the 17th female out of 22 women finishing.

The saying goes “pick your hill to die on” or “pick your battles.” That saying stuck in my head but in another way, “This is not the hill I will die on.” I opted for this race with the hills in mind. I choose this battle